Translated by
Roberta HERRERA
Published
Jul 7, 2023
Early in the afternoon of Wednesday, July 5, there was pushing and shouting in the vicinity of the Wagram venue. The iconic Parisian concert hall had been transformed into a fashion runway, attracting attention as the guests arrived for Viktor&Rolf’s latest haute couture show. International music superstars like Camila Cabello, who attended numerous shows this week, British artist FKA Twigs, and Colombian singer Shakira, caught everyone’s eye. Shakira appeared in a unique white ensemble with a three-dimensional lettered neckline spelling out the word “NO,” reinterpreting a design from the brand’s 2008 collection.
Celebrating its 30th anniversary, the Dutch brand presented an irreverent collection, staying true to their finely-tuned sense of humor that never fails to captivate attendees. Moreover, the media hype was high after its previous collection featuring inverted dresses, which caused a sensation on social media after its last runway show.
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren rose to the challenge of their highly anticipated creations by revisiting three decades of their career, showcasing a couture show composed of tiny creations crafted with the minimal use of fabric.
The resulting collection showcased a fusion of suggestive lingerie, form-fitting bodysuits, and casual swimwear, all crafted from stretchy materials that sculpted silhouettes on the body. These designs departed from the voluminous tulle, crepe, and silk volumes typically associated with the renowned Dutch designers.
This new creative challenge also required a generous dose of originality in reinterpreting their satirical style. Viktor&Rolf surprised the audience with looks featuring voluminous lettering conveying messages such as “Dream on” and “I wish you well,” and pushed the boundaries even further by reinventing the classic tuxedo. The models not only dared to don the classic tuxedo with a bowtie but also incorporated headless male mannequins into their looks, symbolizing anonymous men, with the mannequins embracing their shoulders or hips. The most photographed moment occurred towards the end of the show when one model appeared surrounded by five mannequins dressed in suits, creating a humorous yet critical commentary.
The collection predominantly featured bodysuits, with many of them in a bustier style, incorporating the brand’s signature elements. Bows shaped some silhouettes and enveloped oversized necklines, delicate floral details abounded, and exaggerated shoulder structures added height. References to corsetry were also present, with looks constructed using classic boning. The collection included touches of cabaret with satin fabrics in copper or violet hues, long gloves as accessories, layered ruffle capes with hoods, oversized structured bikinis, and even a double swimsuit look in both nude and vibrant colors.
As expected, the designers appeared at the end of the show to greet their enthusiastic guests, both dressed in matching oversized tuxedos with bowties.
A few minutes later, the fashion show marathon continued near the Arc de Triomphe, precisely at the opulent Hôtel Potocki, located at 27 avenue Friedland. This venue is a customary space for the runway shows of Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad.
Like other fashion houses that presented their collections during Paris Haute Couture, Zuhair Murad opted for a subtle transformation of his distinct aesthetic while remaining true to his origins. The designer chose slightly more relaxed volumes, lightened the elaborate embroidery and embellishments, and instead focused on lace silhouettes and pleated and draped designs.
Under the title ‘Midnight Scent’, the collection flirted with the style of mysterious nocturnal women, evoking both seductive vampires and gothic princesses. Sheer embroidered dresses tantalized with lace details, were paired with cinched-waist velvet blazers, chiffon veils, or ostrich feather decorations. Voluminous elements adorned long flowing trains, floor-length skirts constructed with organza flowers, cascades of ruffles layered over shoulders, and short bolero jackets with a floral and feminine inspiration.
The collection showcased classic silhouettes of bustier bodices and wide skirts with side slits, sharing the spotlight with stunning red carpet looks. These included a semi-transparent jumpsuit embroidered with crystal spider-web patterns and tulip-shaped embroidered mini dresses. Furthermore, the collection featured more informal pieces crafted with couture savoir-faire, such as a long black coat adorned with sparkling tarantula applications, draped skirts elevated by long gloves, or tops with bow details.
The nocturnal references were also reflected in the darker color palette chosen for the collection, deviating from Murad’s usual hues. The colors included shades of white, black, scarlet, and deep violet. The models complemented the collection with pale makeup and dark red lips, accentuating their portrayal as black widows.
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