Translated by
Roberta HERRERA
Published
Jun 27, 2023
As the fashion cycle inexorably brings us back to a more classic and discreet wardrobe, a timeless colour palette of black, white, and beige dominated the Spring/Summer 2024 collections. Concluding the marathon of men’s fashion shows on June 25, London, Florence, Milan, and Paris demonstrated a collective commitment to dressing elegantly. The return of iconic pieces like coats, suits, vests, and timeless accessories such as ties, hats, and boutonnières showcased the desire to embrace sartorial excellence. These collections breathed new life into garments, reimagining them with meticulous attention to detail and proportion while exuding an effortlessly relaxed attitude. The prevailing trend shifted from streetwear to workwear, featuring functional pieces adorned with versatile pockets.
1. Suits
The grandeur of the classic suit resurfaced as an essential piece in the male wardrobe. Many fashion designers even embraced the three-piece suit, a quintessential symbol of tradition, adapting it into casual looks where it could be paired with a bare torso. Noteworthy mentions include Giorgio Armani, Paul Smith, Dries Van Noten, Federico Cina, among others. Suits were also reimagined through innovative cuts and constructions, with Botter and Egon Lab leading the way.
2. Boutonnières
Symbolizing refined elegance, the boutonnière experienced a contemporary revival through various decorative elements. Design houses such as Dior Men, Dolce & Gabbana, and Amiri breathed new life into this dandy or gentleman’s emblem. It took the form of a brooch or a fabric flower. Valentino showcased an intricately embroidered rose on jackets, while Yohji Yamamoto presented a silver dragonfly embellishment on boutonnières.
3. Tweed
This luxuriously textured woolen fabric made a notable entry into men’s summer collections. Fearless designers like the brothers Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2, Junya Watanabe, and Doublet embarked on reinventing and reimagining the iconic Chanel jackets with their signature golden buttons. Amiri stood out with a series of exceptionally chic suits crafted from this material.
4. Boots
Prepared for any tropical storm, solid and sturdy boots with rugged soles graced the runways, effortlessly paired with summer-inspired ensembles. From utilitarian fisherman boots at Louis Vuitton and Junya Watanabe to military-inspired boots at 1017 Alyx 9SM, and Neil Barrett‘s sophisticated riding boots, each design was a testament to both style and functionality. Noteworthy mentions also include Rick Owens‘ unconventional medical splint-shaped boots and Etudes Studio’s imitation cowboy boots.
5. Workwear and multifunctional pockets
As streetwear virtually disappears from the male wardrobe, workwear takes the spotlight, offering practical and utilitarian garments. Anoraks and parkas adorned with reflective stripes or vibrant colours, cardigans, and multi-pocket shirts, such as the exquisitely elegant designs by Prada, cargo pants featuring four functional pockets, emerged as the new essentials in men’s fashion. Not to be overlooked are Fendi and Sacai, who showcased aprons, blouses, and jumpsuits as part of their workwear-inspired collections.
6. Jumpsuits
Continuing the workwear-inspired theme, jumpsuits dominated the scene, being omnipresent and available in countless variations. Zegna offered minimalist linen options, while Givenchy and Valentino presented chic white designs. Kenzo introduced denim jumpsuits, Dolce & Gabbana featured lace, Etro showcased printed silk, Loewe presented pink leather, and Etudes explored nylon designs reminiscent of astronauts or gas station attendants. Magliano stayed true to the genuine work overall in faded beige cotton.
7. Crochet
Knitted fabrics retained a prominent presence in summer collections. For the upcoming summer, some designers even offered thick and warm wool sweaters. However, crochet took center stage, as jackets and polo-bermuda sets were meticulously crafted in the style reminiscent of old-fashioned grandmother’s doilies. Lazoschmidl, Sagaboi, and Marine Serre beautifully embraced this crochet technique. Furthermore, crochet was employed to create intricate lace tops and fisherman-inspired jackets, seen in the designs of Botter, Sean Suen, Fendi, and LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi.
8. Jungle effect
The allure of nature manifested strongly in the men’s collections for Spring/Summer 2024, with unexpected bursts of vibrant green prints or savannah foliage adorning classic suits, as beautifully demonstrated by Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. The jungle theme served as a captivating inspiration, with large tropical flowers adorning jackets and shirts (Sacai, Dhruv Kapoor, Valentino) and wild animal motifs appearing on select coats by Marine Serre. Hints of leopard prints could also be spotted throughout the collections.
9. Silver
The shimmering silver glow of the moon permeated several collections, seeking to infuse a touch of brilliance into understated wardrobes. Eli Linnetz Russel and the brand ERL presented an entire collection in this metallic tone, exuding a princely-futuristic spirit. Hed Mayner, Marine Serre, Rains, JordanLuca, and Koché introduced silver elements, particularly in the form of pants. LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi presented a jacquard jacket and coat inspired by the dented sheet metal of a wrecked car.
10. Piercings
Subversive undertones emerged in certain collections through an original piercing concept for T-shirts, featuring one or two delicate rings elegantly positioned at chest level. Noteworthy mentions include Sean Suen, Lazoschmidl, and Jeanne Friot, who creatively embraced this unique aesthetic.
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