Reimagining the concept of gentle luxury

During a recent visit to China in October, themed A Oriente,” Brunello Cucinelli showcased a dynamic presentation of fashion in Zhang Yuan, Shanghai, which brought the intricate connections between family values, Italian culture, and traditional Umbria textile craftsmanship to the Chinese and Asian markets.

In the first half of 2024, Brunello Cucinelli sales reached €620.7 million, marking a 14.1% increase from the previous year, with profits growing by 19.3%. During a global media breakfast meeting in Shanghai, Cucinelli emphasized, “The growth and profits we pursue are stable, long-term, and sustainable.”

He humorously added, “We also tell our investors that we earn reasonable profits; if you need excessively high profit margins, you might want to reconsider investing in us.”

In a dialogue with FashionNetwork.com in China, Brunello remarked, “The positioning of luxury goods is entirely different now compared to 30 years ago. Back then, high-end ready-to-wear or haute couture defined luxury, which was understood in a literal sense. Nowadays, quiet luxury and entry-level luxury have become trends that I don’t fully agree.”

Clearly, Brunello Cucinelli does not excessively cater to young consumers like other brands, but instead maintains its high-end positioning and the high price of its traditional Umbrian craftsmanship.

Brunello stated that today’s brands need to establish “emotional connections” with consumers. Previously, consumers pursued multiple brands, giving multi-brand luxury groups an advantage. Now, however, consumers have become more loyal, spending their money on brands they feel a connection to, which presents more opportunities for single brands. Yet, this also requires brands to communicate and connect with people.
Interestingly, the “emotional connection” that Brunello emphasizes aligns closely with aspects of both Italian and Chinese cultures. It is based on traditional interpersonal relationships, magnified into a network of values concerning style, emotion, and aesthetics, where individual influence amplifies sales, forming the underlying logic for brands to outperform the market.

Regarding the brand’s design philosophy and values, few companies express sentiments as openly in its annual report as Brunello Cucinelli does: “Gentle luxury is a friend who welcomes you with a sincere smile. It is someone who reaches out to you. It is creativity and genius that do not cross the line. It means finding beauty in simplicity. It is welcoming to all. It is within measure and is always appreciated, as it knows the value of respecting others. This is why gentle luxury has a universal value.”

Brunello Cucinelli’s warmth is increasingly resonating with people. In the widely popular Netflix series, ‘Emily in Paris’, Italian actor Eugenio Franceschini portrays Marcello, a young heir to a discreet yet luxurious cashmere brand. The series depicts a company rooted in cultural tradition, committed to craftsmanship, and closely connected to its employees. The serene atmosphere and family-first spirit immediately attracts the protagonist, Emily, and captivates a large audience. The family dinner scenes featuring Marcello and his employees are particularly touching, conveying a sense of humility and an ideology that measures success not by ostentation, but by attention to detail.

Viewers speculated on social media that this fictional company is modelled after Brunello Cucinelli. Brunello himself shared a photo with ‘Emily in Paris’ creator Darren Star, thanking him for the homage in the storyline. This move not only confirmed public speculation but also highlighted that Brunello Cucinelli’s brand values are resonating with a broader audience. And yet during Brunello’s Shanghai visit, he revealed to FashionNework.com that he never thought about the coincidence and is really honoured to be featured.

Back to the reality, the work environment at Brunello Cucinelli resembles that depicted in the show: employees start their day at 8 a.m., enjoy a 90-minute lunch break, and the company cafeteria serves three fresh and locally sourced dishes while offering views of the Umbrian countryside. Work officially ends at 5:30 PM, with no encouragement to work overtime or respond to emails after hours.  Brunello Cucinelli stated that this is the most effective management approach, emphasizing the importance of treating others well, balancing work and life, and creating beautiful garments.

“Last year, I spent over 300 nights conversing with colleagues, teams, and my family,” Brunello told FashionNetwork.com.

“Our activities often centre on dialogues about craftsmanship, conveying genuine Italian values and the transmission of artisanal traditions. I deeply enjoy such exchanges.”

He even expressed publicly, “The village feels like a big family that will never abandon you; that has shaped my experience and culture.”

From the perspective of Chinese consumers, Brunello Cucinelli appears to inhabit a Platonic ideal. With the support of Italian craftsmanship and luxurious wool fabrics, the steadily growing high profits make Brunello Cucinelli’s idyllic vision a tangible reality, projecting warmth and relaxation that resonate deeply with Chinese consumers, who contribute 13% of its market share.

Remarkably, in the rapidly evolving fashion industry, Brunello Cucinelli does not merely cling to tradition. On July 16, Brunello launched a new humanistic technology project related to artificial intelligence at the Short Theatre in Milan: the BrunelloCucinelli.AI website.

Brunello stated that this project was initiated ten years ago and went through three years of development. It involved Brunello Cucinelli himself, architect Massimo de Vico Fallani, and Francesco Bottigliero, the brand’s head of humanistic technology, among others. The dedicated team included mathematicians, engineers, artists, and philosophers. Users can explore the website in almost any language, featuring the Solomei AI system named after the town of Solomeo, which understands visitors’ intents and answers questions while providing images and text for exploration. Brunello Cucinelli hopes this project will fully unlock the potential of human intelligence and artificial intelligence, with the website interface eschewing traditional formats and menu styles, instead generated by AI concepts.

“We should maintain a rational and hopeful attitude towards artificial intelligence; I am confident that it will benefit all humanity,” said the designer. “The poet Xenophanes warned us that the gods of creation did not reveal everything to mortals, but over time, seekers will attain more precious beauty. I sincerely hope that the younger generation can confidently and courageously explore the unseen beauty of humanity in their era.”

Solomei AI represents Brunello Cucinelli’s “calm move” in the realm of artificial intelligence. This willingness to “engage in abstract thought” still embodies Brunello’s care for the world and gentle approach, as well as the brand’s romantic desire to bridge diverse cultures and broadly establish emotional connections among people. 

The façade of the Brunello Cucinelli headquarters in Solomeo is adorned with busts of Plato and Confucius, symbolizing the resonance of Eastern and Western classical cultures and signifying Brunello Cucinelli’s values of connecting the world.