Translated by
Roberta HERRERA
Published
Mar 5, 2024
The vibrancy of Spanish creativity illuminated the bustling Paris Fashion Week for the Fall/Winter 2024 season, showcasing experimentation, vibrant hues, sustainable materials, and luxurious comfort. Paloma Wool presented a collection that exuded a playful and youthful sensuality, while Paula Canovas del Vas challenged industry norms, daring to confront male dominance within the sector.
Paula Canovas del Vas embraces realism in fashion
As a semi-finalist of the prestigious 2022 LVMH Prize, Paula Canovas del Vas continues to push the boundaries of experimentation in fashion. While maintaining the whimsical charm that defines her aesthetic, she has now set her sights on portraying everyday realism through her unique lens. Presenting her latest collection at the Cervantes Institute in Paris this Monday, Canovas del Vas orchestrated a captivating performance featuring the NR Fight women’s club from Paris, showcasing martial arts in a realm typically dominated by men.
Drawing inspiration from the retro aesthetics of sports and academia, Canovas del Vas adorned her collection with a vibrant palette of electric blue, lime green, black, pink, and red. Each ensemble exuded an eccentric yet confidently assertive demeanor, thanks to the meticulous layering of textures, patterns, and colors.
Tulle fabric took center stage, skillfully draped in gathered layers and fashioned into voluminous overskirts and structured bodices. Bold contrasting stripes and geometric motifs adorned skirts and leotards, lending a dynamic energy to the designs. Completing the looks were a series of sumptuous mohair and merino wool sweaters, complemented by bomber jackets, alongside the designer’s signature split toe “Diablo” ballet flats and its boot counterpart. Adding a touch of luxury, faux fur accents adorned pants, hats, and bracelets, exuding sophistication with every detail.
Canovas del Vas sets herself apart by incorporating fabric remnants into her designs, a hallmark of her commitment to sustainability. However, she emphasizes that sustainability extends beyond materials, pointing out the importance of responsible practices throughout the entire design process.
“For us, sustainability is not just about using leftover materials; it’s about approaching design with a sense of purpose and mindfulness,” explained the Murcian designer in an exclusive interview with FashionNetwork.com. “It’s about creating garments that not only minimize environmental impact but also empower the individuals involved in their creation.”
Paloma Wool’s sizzling winter showcase
The Spanish fashion house Paloma Wool, helmed by Barcelona-based designer Paloma Lanna, took center stage for its fourth runway show in Paris. Held in a chic venue nestled behind the iconic Pantheon in Paris’ 5th arrondissement, the event exuded an innate playfulness and an aura of supreme comfort, as diaphanous fabrics tantalizingly played with feminine silhouettes.
While the catwalk boasted a few male models sporting understated ensembles, it was the women who stole the spotlight, effortlessly setting the tempo with Paloma Wool’s signature knitwear. Adorned in strapless tops and gracefully flowing skirts that accentuated their curves, they moved with an undeniable sense of sensuality. Notably, asymmetrical necklines coyly bared a single shoulder, adding an element of allure to the collection. The collection’s colour palette included navy blue, gray, olive green, and beige hues, while sumptuous velvet and lustrous silk elevated the knitwear offerings.
However, it was the ensembles featuring sheer fabric transparencies that truly captivated the audience. Whether in ethereal chiffon skirts of varying lengths, lightweight hooded sweaters, or halter crop tops with elegantly long sleeves, each piece hinted at a subtle sensuality, with delicate bralettes peeking through minimalist cutouts.
Undoubtedly, the most daring ensemble of the collection was a stunning silver “naked dress” crafted from knit fabric, delicately embracing the contours of the body all the way down to the ankles. This captivating garment boasted long sleeves and cuffs, with the hem adorned in a rich, dark gray tone, offering a luxurious soft-touch feel. While adorned with scattered sequins delicately interspersed within the dress’s openwork, it daringly showcased the model’s bare chest, juxtaposed against a striking black undergarment, creating a mesmerizing contrast that epitomized the collection’s bold aesthetic.
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