Juana Martín draws inspiration from wild beasts while Ashi opts for timeless elegance

The concluding day of Paris Haute Couture Week, held on Thursday, July 6, showcased the remarkable talent of two foreign designers. Spanish designer Juana Martín brought forth a fresh iteration of her designs, prominently featuring the captivating essence of Andalusian culture. On the other hand, couturier Mohammed Ashi made his debut on the French fashion week calendar, becoming the first Saudi Arabian designer to receive this distinction.

Entitled ‘Fieras’, the latest collection by Juana Martín, the sole representative of the gypsy community on the Parisian runways, drew inspiration from the cubist movement. The collection unveiled abstract silhouettes with unconventional volumes, artfully transcending the designer’s characteristic Andalusian DNA. Departing from her signature ruffled designs, Martín introduced unique silhouettes and bid farewell to her iconic Cordovan hats, which had previously been indispensable accessories in her collections.

Martín showcased her collection at the Wagram concert hall, located in close proximity to the iconic Arc de Triomphe. Inspired by the works of renowned Malaga painter Picasso, Martín’s collection delved into his post-war creations, weaving a narrative that transitioned from “destruction and sadness to peace and freedom” through acts of rebellion.

The show commenced with a striking ensemble featuring a transparent black lace jumpsuit paired with a long coat boasting a military-inspired cut. The ensemble was further accentuated by a silver helmet adorned with two enigmatic white gloves. Structured silhouettes in contrasting black and cream tones took center stage, adorned with metallic appliqués adorning fabric openings and shimmering embroidery, reminiscent of Picasso’s mythical doodle-faces.

The iconic dove, a symbol synonymous with the Spanish painter, was prominently featured in Juana Martín’s collection, adorning necklines and even transforming into an imposing asymmetrical top paired with a flowing white skirt and elegant gloves. The designer utilized wrap-around overlays to create voluminous structures on black dresses, including a huge bow that adorned a neckline, cascading down into a sweeping cape. Mini-dresses with undulating shapes and metallic warrior-inspired silhouettes also stood out as notable highlights. Pleated sleeves created a captivating butterfly effect on the models, while a headdress adorned with white faces encircling the model’s visage added a touch of cubist charm, serving as a focal point for the show’s finale.

The accessories for the collection were meticulously curated, with Christian Louboutin responsible for providing the footwear. The headdresses, an integral part of the looks, were masterfully conceived by the artisans of VivasCarrion, who are regular collaborators with the Cordovan designer.

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Making his Paris Haute Couture Week debut, Mohammed Ashi chose the prestigious Théâtre du Châtelet as the backdrop for his captivating show. The event, held in the early hours of the morning, created an atmosphere of mystery and darkness as guests were seated on either side of the stage. As the solemn music played in the background, models emerged from the depths of the stalls, surrounded by dramatic white smoke, creating a mesmerizing spectacle.

The anticipation surrounding the brand, established in 2007, was met with an impressive showcase that lived up to the expectations. Drawing inspiration from Patrick Süskind’s novel Perfume the Saudi Arabian couturier presented a collection that embodied a dark romance, characterized by monochromatic ensembles and evocative silhouettes. This was not the brand’s only appearance in Parisian couture, as it had previously been selected for the ‘Saudi 100 Couture Showroom’, organized by the Saudi Fashion Commission.

The art of corsetry played a pivotal role in constructing numerous silhouettes with cinched waists and exaggerated volumes. The collection commenced with a series of black dresses, teasing with strategic openings and soft velvet fabric. Geometric elements also made a statement, showcased through structured shoulder pads, bell-shaped mini dresses, extravagant ruffle layering, a white cap serving as a veil, and even heels shaped like miniature perfume bottles. 

In addition, Ashi skillfully played with textures, creating contrasts in long coats and brushed mohair dresses featuring intricate patterns that resembled tangled nets or delicate spider webs. Transparencies took center stage, daringly adorning several “naked dresses” in soft powdered tones. The necklines featured rounded openings on the chest and torso, further enhancing the allure of the ensembles.