Is Hedi Slimane on his way out?

If the news were to be confirmed, it would be a bombshell in the small world of fashion. After six years of loyal service at the helm of style at Celine, the luxury house owned by LVMH, Hedi Slimane is reportedly on the point of leaving. For the moment, there has been no official confirmation of this. But speculation has been rife for some weeks now.

The designer’s contract, which is up for renewal at the start of the year -Hedi Slimane started at Celine in January 2018-, is said to be the subject of bitter discussions. According to Business of Fashion, no agreement has yet been reached. According to the American newspaper WWD, LVMH has already found a successor for the French designer in Michael Rider, the current creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren.

For the American, it would be a return to Celine, since he worked for the house for ten years alongside Phoebe Philo. He left in 2018 when Hedi Slimane arrived. This hypothesis may come as a surprise, given that Hedi Slimane has radically changed Celine’s style in recent years, moving completely away from the timeless minimalist spirit of his predecessor. But Michael Rider isn’t the only one in the running.

The group does not publish Celine’s results. According to some sources, sales at the label headed by Séverine Merle have risen from €500 million in 2017 to between €2.5 and €3 billion today. Although Hedi Slimane’s sexy rock style was heavily criticised at his first shows, he has since made amends and fulfilled his contract. The Parisian bobo chic spirit that he infused into his collections managed to seduce buyers once again, while rejuvenating the clientele with pieces that were both easy and desirable, such as jeans.   

The designer has reworked the brand’s visual identity from top to bottom, from the logo to the name, depriving Celine of its accent, via social networks and advertising campaigns, most of which were shot directly by him. He has also redesigned the layout of stores, while the number of openings has increased, as has the number of new hires. Above all, he broadened the offer by launching Celine’s very first men’s line, which immediately attracted retailers, delighted to find Hedi Slimane’s menswear, which has always been his strong point.

To elevate Celine’s image to the very top end of the market and expand its range, a “haute parfumerie” collection and a “haute maroquinerie” line were also launched, with the designer’s craftsmanship going hand in hand with his creative vision. But it would seem that over the last few seasons, it has just not been enough. The range has tended to lack renewal, and the leather goods category has not produced the expected results. The brand has also chosen not to take part in fashion shows, continuing to unveil its collections through videos, which now seem less attractive than physical events.

Finally, Hedi Slimane was often seen as a star designer who was difficult to manage, and who had difficulty communicating with the other teams. This was already partly the cause of his departure from Saint Laurent. A divorce from Celine therefore seems quite likely. In the meantime, rumours are flying fast about Hedi Slimane’s potential new destination. As was the case a few years ago, there is renewed speculation that the couturier might move to Chanel.