Milan’s rich season included strong showings by two important, and very distant, collections by young women – Ilenia Durazzi and Jezabelle Cormio – and an intriguing architectural/footwear link up with Alexandre Birman and Lina Bo Bardi.
Durazzi: Land Art and Luxury
No trip to Milan Fashion is complete without checking out Durazzi, a happening new marque that skillfully combines art and commerce.
This season Ilenia Durazzi’s presentation was an art installation in Brera, where 10 models stood on mounds of molded gray clay. Small speakers dotted around this mini mountain range emitted music mixed with speeches and interviews of the noted women who inspired this Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The collection was entitled ‘Monument to Herself’.
Like the clay, many of the looks came in pale gray, from industrious short parkas with elongated flap pockets and Rodchenko worthy trench-coats to a halter neck mock flamenco dress.
In terms of clothes, designer Ilenia Durazzi continues to combine equestrian ideas – seen in great cut out boots and swish leather bags with mini stirrup locks and high-grade utilitarian chic.
Leading to perhaps the most singular vision in new generation Milan.
Cormio: Fashion with a funky feminist F
There was not any music on the soundtrack at Cormio, but a blend of angry prose, dismayed admissions, political speeches, breakfast recipes and spoken song lyrics, in a striking statement in this funky feminist fashion show.
The cast, a mix of professionals and real people, almost racing about a battered warehouse on the outskirts of Milan. As ever the latest collection by Jezabelle Cormio pulled no punches.
Her program notes didn’t even mention clothes. But what we witnessed in the scruffy space was pretty fierce – scrawny jerseys with cut-outs, ribbed knits deliberately frayed and “patched” with lace; or pink camisoles bearing the legend Jezebel. All worn over briefs, knickers, slip dresses and mini shorts finished with metal chains.
Tough street chic with tons of attitude and all the better for it. Funky feminism with a capital F.
Alexandre Birman: From Lina with Love
Designers, especially of accessories, have been inspired by architecture for generations, but there have been few times where the connection has been as coherent as Alexandre Birman’s team with Lina Bo Bardi.
One of the greatest modernist architects, Bo Bardi was famous for the explanation of her origin: “I am a Brazilian who was born in Rome.” After a youth in Italy, where she worked with Gio Ponti, she moved to Brazil – going on to create several remarkable buildings notably the São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP) and her iconic Casa de Vidro, or Glass House.
Lino also created deft modernist furniture, three of whose raw pieces riffed with great gusto through the latest collection by Alexandre Birman, the Brazilian footwear baron par excellence.
So, her beige suede Bolo de Latão chair with golden sphere handles, led to a series of great slingback with golden ball heels.
While Lina’s 1948 tea trolley was reimagined as great shoes with wooden triangular heels and snakeskin straps. Made in limited editions of up to 50 and labeled Istituto Lino Bo & P.M Bardi Limited Series Alexandre Birman, they all felt like instant collectors’ items.
“Given Lina Bo Bardi’s importance, it’s an honor to have carried out this project,” explained Alexandre.
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