Charles de Vilmorin launches ready-to-wear line at Sphère showroom

After breaking into the Parisian fashion scene in 2020, Charles de Vilmorin continues his upward trajectory. At the last Hyères Festival, where he chaired the fashion jury, the 27-year-old French designer said he was keen on launching a ready-to-wear line. A few months later, the project is coming to fruition thanks to the backing of the French Fashion and Haute Couture Federation (FHCM), which offered de Vilmorin to host his new line at the Sphère showroom, operated by FHCM with DEFI’s support. de Vilmorin’s first ready-to-wear collection will be unveiled at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris from February 28 to March 5.
 

“Initially, I thought it would be complicated to organise. I’m absolutely alone. Then the [FHCM] decided to include me in Sphère. As soon as a deadline was set, I got down to it. I found a great workshop in Paris and developed the collection. The style is a good fit for me, it’s very classic with a touch of eccentricity, but a judicious one,” de Vilmorin told FashionNetwork.com.
 
The collection consists of 25 women’s wardrobe essentials: three dresses, one of which drapes loosely around the body while another is “a little more extravagant,” slightly baggy jeans, a trench coat, a blouse, shorts, a skirt, various shirts, a turtleneck sweater, scarves and a down jacket, a de Vilmorin classic. More than on garment design, he said he focused on prints and patterns, all of which he designed himself, his signature trait ever since he started in fashion.

de Vilmorin said he was inspired by a love letter penned by George Sand, which he rewrote after his own fashion, printing it in black on white on some of the items. The collection’s other motifs refer to two lovers meeting in a bar, and feature sketches of tables, glasses, flowers, hearts, and more.

The garments are made using natural materials, like poplin and cotton fabric sourced from Supima, and silk and silk taffeta from Nona Source. “The most important thing for me is for the silhouette, the wardrobe and the message to be very clear. I want easy-to-wear clothes made to the highest quality standards in terms of materials and craftsmanship, while remaining affordable,” said de Vilmorin.

 
Apart from scarves and turtleneck sweaters, priced more cheaply, the average price of the items is approximately €300-500, and up to €1,500-2,000 for some statement items like the trench coat. de Vilmorin isn’t aiming for large-scale distribution. “The important thing is to have the right buyers and the right retailers,” he said.

Until now, de Vilmorin has chiefly focused on haute couture, though he has dropped a few collaborations, for example with 24S and Galeries Lafayette, which “have worked very well.” His ready-to-wear line will rely on “fine items, each with a little special detail, without being excessive. Unlike what I can do in haute couture.” 

de Vilmorin gave January’s Paris Haute Couture Week a miss, but he is expected to be back at the next edition. In the meantime, he is trying to grow his organisation, and is holding talks with potential partners. “For me, it’s a new beginning,” he said.