Carven’s minimalist sophistication and Ann Demeulemeester’s rockstar chic

Amidst a rainy weekend, Paris Fashion Week unveiled two distinct fashion narratives on Saturday. Carven‘s Fall/Winter 2024-25 showcase embodied sophistication and practicality, while Ann Demeulemeester‘s collection exuded a gender-fluid, rockstar allure.

Carven and Louise Trotter’s refined elegance

Louise Trotter, the first female creative director at Carven since its founder Carmen de Tommaso, continues to subtly revitalize the brand, evident in her second collection, which effortlessly combined modernity with timeless sophistication.

 
Beneath an initial façade of understated elegance, the Carven woman radiates a sense of chic nonchalance, elevated by opera gloves and multi-strand pearl necklaces.

Each garment was meticulously crafted from lightweight flannels and wools, including caraco tops, sleeveless maxi dresses, and textured fabrics such as washed, bouclé, or brushed wool. Wrap coats, straight mid-length skirts, oversized cross-over jackets, sleeveless tops and wide-legged trousers added a contemporary twist to classic silhouettes.

The British designer manipulated proportions, subtly modernizing the collection with slightly oversized cuts and unconventional details. She softened the shoulders of maxi trench coats and jackets, transformed men’s jackets into cropped coats, added volume to draped skirts, and accentuated necklines. Large buttons adorned skirts, while blouses and tops were cleverly designed to appear inside out, with the collar prominently displayed at the front and an open back.

These versatile pieces, designed for effortless day-to-night wear, exude confidence while providing unparalleled comfort. The silhouettes, rendered in neutral hues (gray, black, brown, beige), received a playful twist with subtly quirky accessories, including cushion-shaped bags, rectangular white clutches with envelope-like folds, flat satin boots worn like socks, and fluffy cotton ballerina flats.
 
This season, Carven unveiled its new logo, conceived in collaboration with English graphic designer and artistic director Peter Miles. He drew inspiration from the brand’s original label dating back to its establishment in 1945, complete with its historic and enduring address.

Ann Demeulemeester’s Rock’n’Roll spirit

At Ann Demeulemeester, Stefano Gallici presented his second collection, aiming to delve deeper into the brand’s essence rather than simply revisiting its established codes.

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Returning to its roots, the collection at Ann Demeulemeester revived the brand’s signature rock’n’roll ethos, drawing inspiration from the iconic American singer Patti Smith, a muse to the Belgian designer.

With tousled hair adorned with a delicate beaded chain and an androgynous edge infused with punk sensibilities, the models embodied the spirit of the legendary 1970s singer. Their sunken cheeks and solemn demeanor conjured images of tormented poets, clad in the attire of yesteryear’s rockstars: long coats, voluminous jackets adorned with wide astrakhan collars, and thick wool socks tucked into rugged biker boots.
 
The collection showcased timeless pieces such as jackets, floor-length skirts, layered ensembles, and chunky knits (presented in distressed and perforated variations) that have long been synonymous with the brand’s allure. Additionally, jackets, waistcoats, crisp white shirts, and long flowing ribbons trailing gracefully to the ground, characteristic of the label’s neo-romantic aesthetic, were reimagined in multiple strap iterations, resembling apron-like tunics.

Models exuded an effortless cool in a myriad of perforated wool dresses, supple leather jackets, khaki pea coats, and military-inspired capes, alongside classic suiting and unexpected lingerie-inspired ensembles featuring culotte shorts, camisoles, and ethereal slip dresses in pale pink silk or satin, accessorized with ladylike handbags.

As founder Ann Demeulemeester observed from the front row, her smile of approval spoke volumes. “I really liked it, particularly with the overall vibe. The narrative was perfectly captured. I couldn’t be more pleased,” remarked the esteemed designer, who established her eponymous fashion house in 1982 and retired in late 2013. In 2020, the brand was acquired by Milanese retail entrepreneur Claudio Antonioli.