Appiolaza debuts at Moschino with a humorous homage

This season’s big debut in Milan was at Moschino, where Argentine-born Adrian Appiolaza staged his first collection – a humorous homage to founder Franco.

Appiolaza succeeded American-born Jeremy Scott, who left after a decade-long tenure last year, a period which witnessed some epic Moschino shows, albeit too much grandiose theatricality in the final seasons.
 
A highly experienced designer, Appiolaza instead concentrated on his own takes on classic elements in the Moschino DNA: signature smiles, question marks, trompe l’oeil and twisted plays on sartorial codes.

The resulting collection by Appiolaza was infinitely easy to wear, and one imagines retail, that those of his predecessor.
 
He opened with a splendidly cut trench worn by a model carrying a brown paper bag with celery and two baguettes. Mock housewives followed carrying smiley totes containing flowers and artichokes. Adrian cut great wide pants, though partly covered them with ruffled flamenco skirts. The house’s famed graphic lettering was seen in a cool black mohair column with Peace printed from ankle to shoulder, where the P became the neckline. His printed trompe l’oeil suspender lingerie dresses were saucy as were his sequined question mark dresses. Another smart idea was using tie fabrics to make great pants, or the interior/exterior of raincoats.
 
It all felt like a cast of Moschino characters, obsessive personalities brought back to life – from the nutty housewife, to the daffy rockstar.
 

See catwalk

For guys, he showed some great witty silk shirts, in black and white stripes where the black was braces. While his urban cowboys in denim – seen with ruffled flamenco minis too – carried red leather bags in the shape of a heart – the iconic Moschino symbol. 
 
Appiolaza, whose appointment was only announced in December, had barely six weeks to pull together a collection.
 
“But the very fact that we had not a lot of time helped us to be decisive and concentrate on what we wanted. It turned out to be a good recipe,” stressed Adrian, who has done stints at JW Anderson, Miu Miu and Chloé in an impressive CV.
 
One key element was using several unexpected images culled from fine art works by the founder. They had never before become clothing. Such as silks dresses with black and white hands meeting in a shake. 
 
“I thought this could really help make new obsessive personalities amongst all the characters,” he explained.
 
Though from Argentine, Adrian speaks Italian, allowing him to soak up more Italian culture. All the way to the red, white and green of the nation’s flag made into a final cocktail dress.
 
All together, a self-assured opening collection that suggests Appiolaza may well have a long run at this much loved Milanese house.