Dehydrated oily skin: Symptoms and treatment

There are solid reasons why doctors keep stressing on the need to stay hydrated. If your body does not get a sufficient amount of water, your pee will get darker and you will head to the washroom less frequently. Dry mouth is another way of your body telling you to drink water. When it comes to your skin, it can get dehydrated too. It is not limited to dry skin type, as even people with oily skin can have hydration issues. Yes, it is possible to have dehydrated oily skin, something that can happen when your skin lacks water. If that’s what you are dealing with then your face will have a greasy appearance with flaky or rough patches.

What is dehydrated oily skin?

“Dehydrated oily skin is a skin condition where the skin lacks water (dehydration), but continues to produce excess sebum (oil),” shares cosmetic and aesthetic surgeon Dr Shweta Mishra. This creates a paradoxical situation where the skin feels greasy yet tight, rough, or flaky.

Dehydrated skin is often misunderstood, as many people assume that it is something only people with dry skin type can experience. “A lot of people assume that oily skin doesn’t need hydration, but in reality, the lack of water triggers the skin to compensate by overproducing oil, leading to a compromised skin barrier,” explains the expert.

What are the symptoms of dehydrated oily skin?

The key symptoms of dehydrated oily skin include:

• Your skin will feel tight or uncomfortable, especially right after washing, due to a lack of hydration.
• Excess oil production will lead to a noticeable shine on the face, particularly in the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin).
• Despite oiliness, dehydrated areas will appear flaky, uneven, or textured.
• Overproduction of sebum can make the pores look larger and more prominent.
• If you have dehydrated oily skin, it may become more prone to irritation and redness.
• Makeup will not blend well, and settle into dry patches or slip off due to excess oil.

What are the causes of dehydrated oily skin?

Dehydrated oily skin is often the result of a combination of internal and external factors.

1. Overwashing or using harsh cleansers

Using face cleansers with strong surfactants like sulfates can strip your skin of its natural oils. “This can make the sebaceous glands overproduce oil to compensate for the loss of moisture from your face,” Dr Mishra. This can further create a vicious cycle of dehydration and oiliness.

2. Environmental stressors

Exposure to harsh weather conditions, such as cold winds during winter or dry indoor heating, can deplete your skin’s water content. “Pollution can further weaken your skin barrier, making it harder for your skin to retain moisture,” says the expert.

3. Lifestyle choices

Dehydration from inadequate water intake or excessive consumption of caffeine and alcohol can lead to water loss in your skin. “Poor sleep, stress, and unhealthy eating habits like diets lacking in healthy fats and antioxidants also contribute to an imbalanced skin condition,” says the expert.

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4. Inappropriate skincare

Using products that are not suited for your skin type, such as overly drying toners, alcohol-based astringents, or heavy creams, can disrupt your skin’s moisture balance. Skipping hydration steps or overusing mattifying products can exacerbate dehydration.

5. Underlying conditions

“Hormonal fluctuations, such as those caused by puberty, and pregnancy, can increase sebum production while impairing your skin’s ability to retain water,” says Dr Mishra. Also, chronic stress is known to elevate cortisol levels, which can weaken your skin barrier and worsen dehydration.

How to fix dehydrated oily skin?

To restore hydration, and get healthy skin, do the following:

1. Apply moisturiser

Apply moisturiser after washing your face with lightweight, hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid. Even though you have oily skin, it is important to use moisturiser to keep your skin hydrated, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. You can also look for a moisturiser that contains a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a sun protection factor of 30 or higher.

2. Barrier repair

Look for skincare products with ceramides and niacinamide to help restore your skin’s protective barrier and lock in moisture. Topical use of ceramide can increase skin hydration and improve barrier function, as per research published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology in 2018. “Regular use of these ingredients can improve your skin’s ability to retain hydration, and reduce sensitivity and inflammation,” says the expert.

3. Exfoliation

When you exfoliate your skin two times a week, use gentle chemical exfoliants like lactic acid or mandelic acid. “These can help to remove dead skin cells without damaging your skin barrier,” says Dr Mishra. Mandelic acid is ideally suited for people with oily skin due to its lipid production inhibition and ability to enhance exfoliation, as per research published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology in 2020.

4. Oil control

Go for non-comedogenic products to help to regulate sebum while maintaining hydration. Skincare products with salicylic acid or zinc PCA (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) work well for oily skin. “They can help to balance oil production, reduce shine, and minimise the appearance of pores without dehydrating your skin,” says the expert.

5. Drink water

While applying the right skincare products will help to hydrate your skin, you also need to drink at least eight glasses of water. If not plain water, you can consume detox drinks for healthy skin. Also, have less coffee and alcohol, as they can dehydrate your skin irrespective of your skin type.

Dehydrated oily skin may be due to less water intake or using inappropriate skincare products. Don’t worry, just focus on hydration, skin barrier repair, and gentle care for healthy skin.