Wales Bonner: Homage to Howard University

Grace Wales Bonner looked to American this season in a collection inspired by time spent researching in Howard University in Washington.

 
Founded as a theological seminary for black clergymen in 1867, Howard’s graduates have gone on to become the nomenklatura of black American artistic, political and intellectual leaders – governors, senators, cabinet members and Nobel laureates.
 
Born in the UK, Wales Bonner’s work has always been about reinterpreting Western tailoring and fashion via the prism of African and Caribbean culture. So, the move across the pond to Washington marked a significant shift in her style.

The result was the best collection in the Paris menswear collections on Wednesday – the second day in the six-day season.
 
Grace’s ideas are often deceptively simple, precisely because she has a very clear idea of what she wants to achieve. Take her fluid wrap tuxedo suit, which in a season of displaced buttons and enfolding jackets was the best so far in Europe. As well as being the fruit of her partnership with Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard. 
 
Playing with collegiate references, there were rowing sweaters which read ‘Howard Crew’; or houndstooth baseball jackets embossed with ‘WB’. While she broadcasted her highly successful linkup with Adidas, with trefoil logo sweatshirts and new crocodile embossed leather Originals Superstars sneakers. Retailers tell us that the hottest sneaker in the world today is Wales Bonner’s linkup with Adidas.

 
Tellingly, there was a creative nomenklatura of great French black talent sitting front row – from France’s greatest ever basketball player Tony Parker, to Omar Sy, the star of hit Netflix series ‘Lupin’. Everyone sitting patiently in an old wing of the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, an 18th-century college created by the French Revolution to promote science and technical skills.
 
And technically, this was an impress show too, as the designer invented a whole new garment, a safari jacket meets duffle coat that opened the show. She also cut languid gray flannel suits for guys and gals, and reconceived the Canadian coat in denim. Given a soulful touch with Kantha quilt blousons and dusters. Worn on a cast poised and finely made up by Lauren Parsons using flawless Sisley makeup.
 
The diminutive Wales Bonner took her bow with singer Yasiin Bey after he gave a great rap performance on a small stage in the middle of the runway during the show.
 
“Thinking about an academic wardrobe and an intellectual lineage, and also how that passes through into hip hop. I was very conscious of all the rap music around Howard University, but also interestingly the mix of basketball courts and sporting clothing with quite smart and practical clothes. People call Howard The Mecca, so it became for me a place of imaging for me,” Wales Bonner explained quietly post-show.