Weinsanto and Vaquera kick off Paris Fashion Week with daring shows

After an intense Milan Fashion Week, Paris took the stage on September 25 to kick off the presentation of collections for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. This edition’s lineup includes the participation of 108 brands, 68 shows, and 41 presentations, underlining Paris’s status as the fashion capital until October 3. As is becoming customary, Weinsanto from France and Vaquera from the United States were the designers chosen to open the week-long event.

The action unfolded in the multicultural neighborhood of La Chapelle, in the 10th arrondissement of Paris. The venue, an industrial-style building housing the techno club Carbone, was chosen by Victor Weinsanto for his show. At the entrance, street style photographers captured the guest’s unique looks, in the presence of curious local residents and police cars that came to ensure order among the crowd. The fashion week had indeed begun.

Titled “Perfect day,” the collection showcased the more mature vision of the designer from Alsace, as he embarked on a reflection of the quintessential wedding day. Since taking the helm of his eponymous label in 2020, the fuchsia-colored hair creative has confidently been steering his brand toward designs that stay true to his signature aesthetic, marked by voluminous creations and glamorous styles. However, this time, he cleverly integrated more relaxed and subtle pieces, broadening the brand’s commercial appeal. Pieces ranged from a sleek beige trench coat with wide lapels to fitted shirt ensembles and a striking canary yellow blazer with structured shoulder pads.

His collection paid homage to the French saying “Mariage pluvieux, mariage heureux” (“Rainy wedding, happy wedding”, ndr) even presenting a sensual reinterpretation of the umbrella. Weinsanto’s show featured an array of contemporary bridal reinterpretations, all anchored by the corsetry he honed during his tenure with Jean Paul Gaultier. From simple and seductive black mini-corsets to nearly haute couture gowns, such as a semi-transparent vase-shaped dress adorned solely with delicate flower petals, a long white bustier dress with a V-neckline, worn by the iconic French drag queen Nicky Doll, or a reinterpretation of the “naked dress” surrounding the body with pearls in the form of waves, the collection encompassed the diverse facets of today’s bride.

On the more casual side, ties and “W” brooches became the must-have accessories for Weinsanto brides, while hoods were incorporated into jackets, wool coats and satin dresses. Pants made their way into couture-style oversized silhouettes and tiny shorts. Prints were notably absent, and fabrics from Nona Source, LVMH‘s circular sourcing platform, included denim and embroidered lace. Swarovski rhinestones and Christian Louboutin heels added exquisite details to the collection, while the color palette ranged from classic black and white to nude, beige, and yellow.

Provocative Y2K cowgirl aesthetics by Vaquera

New York-based designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee, the visionaries behind Vaquera since its inception in 2013, returned to their familiar show space in Paris – 35-37 Rue des Francs Bourgeois in Le Marais. This runway presentation came with a warning: “Not suitable for those sensitive to flashlights.” The show transformed an upper room of the hôtel particulier into an electric rave garage.

Attendees, donning their finest underground fashion, stood in anticipation around the catwalk. Vaquera’s models strutted with intensity, executing rapid, robotic strides. This show was a modern adaptation, designed to cater to the fashion desires of passionate Gen-Z enthusiasts. In stark contrast to Weinsanto’s precision in couture, Vaquera presented ready-to-wear fashion for all-out parties. Their collection featured relaxed and deconstructed pieces combined in surprising and original ways.

Dresses took on asymmetry and draping, often layered creatively with other garments and accessories. White shirts, far from traditional, adopted an oversized format with a single exposed shoulder. Metallic mesh jumpsuits enveloped bare bodies, and sensuality was explicit with leather thongs and cowboy pants that exposed the buttocks.

Vaquera’s signature style was evident with denim pieces such as zippered skirts and oversized pants. Tight metallic tops and crop tops featuring the Vaquera logo contributed to the daring aesthetic. Sunglasses were essential accessories for long, nocturnal gatherings, and sailor-style hats, large caps, and berets completed the look. Leather was the common thread in the collection, appearing as tails on various accessories, furry belts, extravagant hats, and voluptuous coats.