Missoni relaunches its man at Pitti Uomo

Missoni is rethinking its offering for men. For the occasion, the Milanese label left Milan Fashion Week and moved to Pitti Uomo, where it had been absent for years, to unveil a fresh, young and desirable Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The Milanese fashion house pulled out all the stops, taking over a large area of the show entirely decked out in its colours, to turn the spotlight on a segment in which it wants to accelerate, by reworking its range and positioning with a new creative team.
 

Since February, Missoni has reorganised, setting up a team entirely dedicated to men, while creative director Filippo Grazioli is now concentrating solely on women’s collections. The idea is to develop the men’s category, which still represents a small percentage of sales. To achieve this, the collection has been thoroughly restructured, with fewer pieces – almost 150 – but more targeted and defined, and above all easy to combine.

The first step was to work on the colour palette. Gone are the disparate colours! To dress this new “enthusiastic, dynamic and sporty” man, who appreciates a certain elegance, the creative team sought greater harmony by streamlining the palette around two main families: the thousand and one shades of blue-green of the sea and those of sunset, from orange to midnight blue, while black or white pieces can be interspersed throughout the ensemble.

The other theme is the functionality of the pieces, rethinking proportions with a focus on comfort, to create a flexible wardrobe for day and evening. The structure of the collection is articulated with more pieces from the bottom, via workwear trousers, suits and shorts. Whereas Missoni menswear was previously aimed at the 25-30 age group, it is now also aimed at a mature man. Prices have also been adjusted to make them a little more accessible, with the most elaborate cardigans priced at €990 and, in the beachwear section, where prints are replacing knitted effects, with pieces ranging from €300 to €350, the aim being to appeal to younger customers too.
 
The beachwear section includes t-shirts, polo shirts and herringbone shirts in shades of blue and green, or in the same colour like a t-shirt woven in five shades of turquoise. There are also lightweight shorts and swimwear, as well as terrycloth ensembles, such as this sweatshirt with big wavy stripes or a white jacquard short-shirt with coloured braids. The collection, inspired by the world of Californian surfers, plays on “solarised” effects with colour combinations that give the garments an almost sun-kissed look.
 

The collection, made up mainly of knitwear (knitwear, waistcoats, pullovers, polo shirts, bowling shirts, jackets, trousers, etc.), gives pride of place to textile experimentation, while respecting the house’s codes with, in particular, a series of ten special cardigans knitted in large stitches, paying homage to the emblematic piece by founder Ottavio Missoni. They required a great deal of research into yarns, like the model knitted with a cotton yarn covered with a silk net.
 
The famous zigzags typical of Missoni are everywhere, but in special treatments and weaves. This season, for example, a metallic thread has been inserted, usually used in the automotive industry, which reflects light evenly at 360 degrees. It is used in a number of styles, including a black suit in cotton and viscose. Elsewhere, cardigans have been knitted using a yarn with a bulking effect, which adds volume while maintaining lightness. Some knitted jackets are treated with a waterproof coating. Everything is produced in cotton, poplin, linen, silk and eco-friendly dyes.
 
Finally, for the first time, Missoni has developed a complete collection of men’s shoes, with around thirty models, including sandals, espadrilles and clogs.