Milan Fashion Week kicks off on Tuesday with an extra day and a few less stars

Milan is back to the hustle and bustle of yesteryear, with a dense Women’s Fashion Week packed with parallel events. After years of battling, the Camera della Moda (CNMI) has finally managed to get its calendar up and running a day earlier, on Tuesday September 17, extending as usual until the following Monday, September 23, which is generally devoted to the shows in digital format. Milan Fashion Week will have just as many shows as last February, even without its star, Giorgio Armani, who will be showing in New York on October 17, and Tom Ford, who this season will hold a presentation before moving to Paris under the aegis of his new creative director Haider Ackermann.

The spring-summer 2025 catwalk schedule has lost eight names and gained eight new ones, a mix of returning designers and newcomers. A total of 55 shows are expected in the Lombardy capital this week, or 54 including the double Emporio Armani show, which will close with a grand celebration in the Milanese fashion house’s theatre. In addition to this programme, however, there will be a host of parallel shows and events, such as the eagerly awaited first show by Fiorucci, the emblematic brand acquired at the end of 2022 by Swiss businesswoman Donna Bertarelli and headed up by Francesca Murri.

Although it is not on the official calendar, Fiorucci will be opening the catwalk shows at the Milan Triennale on Tuesday 17, before giving way to Fendi, Marni, Alberta Ferretti and Iceberg. The first day will be particularly busy, with other shows on the programme, including those by Twinset, Maryling and Redemption, which will be celebrating its tenth anniversary, as well as the after-party organised by Iceberg to celebrate its fiftieth anniversary. 

A total of 173 events have been announced, including 75 presentations and 33 events. These include exhibitions by Palm Angels and Niccolo’ Pasqualetti, who will be on show in Paris for the first time the following week, and a K-pop dance show for the Milanese public in Piazza del Duomo by accessories label MCM. On Friday September 20, The Black Carpet Awards will be presented, while to round things off, the Chamber of Fashion will be presenting its Green Fashion Oscars on Sunday September 22 at La Scala, at the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2024. 

Among those absent were Blumarine, which is in a transitional phase with the arrival of its new creative director David Koma, and MSGM, which showed its women’s collection in June along with the men’s collection to celebrate its 15th anniversary. This time, the label will be holding a presentation. Chiara Boni La petite robe and Maxivive, the label run by Nigerian Papa Oyeyemi, are also opting for a video format this season, which will be shown on September 23. 

Also no longer on the catwalk is Sagaboi, the London label of Trinidad-born Geoff K. Cooper, which debuted last season in Milan. Cooper, originally from Trinidad, which debuted in Milan last season, and Ethiopian designer Feben, who was backed by Dolce & Gabbana last February. She was due to make way for Chinese designer Susan Fang, but her show has been postponed until February.

The Week will nonetheless be able to count on a number of new names and a number of returnees. Vietnamese designer Phan Dang Hoang and Chiccomao by Chinese designer Mao Bao Bao will be making their debuts on the Milan catwalks. A number of young labels, absent from the show in recent seasons, will be making a comeback, including Federico Cina, The Attico and Andreadamo, as well as less youthful names such as Luisa Beccaria and, above all, Laura Biagiotti, who, after opting for the digital option, is back with a physical show to mark her 50th birthday. Finally, Boss, who shows in Milan every other season, returns on September 18. 

As always, Milan will play host to the big names in made in Italy, from Roberto Cavalli and Etro on Wednesday 18 to Max Mara, Prada and Moschino on Thursday 19, Tod’s, Gucci, Missoni and Versace on Friday 20, and Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta on Saturday 21. 

The Week comes to a close on the September 23 with a day dedicated to virtual shows. There are eight of them, including five new names including Defaïence by Nicola Bacchilega, Francesco Murano, Jacob Cohën, Rè Shui’ and Viapiave33. At the same time, in its Fashion Hub, the Chambre de la mode will be hosting a host of emerging fashion houses and projects dedicated to international design, from Korea to Latin America and China.