Mandelic acid for skin: Benefits and side effects

If you use skincare products that can combat acne and prevent premature ageing, you must have come across an active ingredient called mandelic acid. It is a popular chemical exfoliant known for being gentle on the skin. It can help to remove the top layers of your skin cells and improve your skin’s appearance. Incorporating it into your skincare routine can help address different skin concerns. But before using it, you need to know the concentration and how frequently you can use it. Otherwise, it can lead to skin irritation, redness, or peeling.

What is mandelic acid?

It is a type of alpha hydroxy acid, which is a group of acids occurring naturally in fruits, milk, and sugar cane. “As for mandelic acid, it comes from bitter almonds, and is used in many skincare products due to its gentle exfoliating properties,” says dermatologist and cosmetologist Dr Ashini Bhatt. Its gentle exfoliating properties make it suitable even for those struggling with acne and uneven skin tone.

What are the benefits of using mandelic acid for skin?

It offers a wide range of benefits for the skin, making it a popular choice in skincare routines.

1. Reduces hyperpigmentation

Mandelic acid is effective in fading dark spots, melasma, a skin condition that causes patches on the face, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It is effective in clearing hyperpigmentation, according to research published in the Dermatologic Surgery journal in 2009. “By helping with skin cell turnover, it gradually lightens pigmented areas, giving you a more even skin tone,” says the expert.

2. Treats acne

Thanks to its antibacterial properties, mandelic acid is a great solution for acne-prone skin. Skincare products containing 5 or 10 percent mandelic acid are safe and effective for acne treatment, according to an analysis published in Dermatology Review in 2015. It eliminates acne-causing bacteria, reduces inflammation, and prevents future breakouts, helping you maintain clearer skin.

3. Improves skin texture

It helps refine skin texture by gently exfoliating the surface. “This reduces roughness, minimises the appearance of large pores, and gives your skin a smoother, more polished look,” says Dr Bhatt. It is a topical treatment option for improving quality of skin, according to a 2018 study published in the Facial Plastic Surgery journal.

4. Anti-ageing benefits

As a powerful exfoliant, this acid reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It yields great results when used to treat wrinkles, as per an analysis published in Dermatology Review in 2015. “It also stimulates collagen production, which improves skin elasticity and contributes to firmer, youthful-looking skin,” says the expert.

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5. Repairs skin from sun damage

Mandelic acid is effective in repairing damage caused by sun’s ultraviolet radiation and environmental factors. “It helps lighten sunspots (skin blemishes that appear due to excessive sun exposure), reduces skin tanning, and restores the skin’s natural brightness,” says the expert.

Salicylic acid vs mandelic acid: Which one is better?

Salicylic acid for skin

Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid, has a smaller molecular size, which allows it to penetrate deeper into the skin. “It’s best for oily or acne-prone skin, as it effectively unclogs pores and controls sebum,” says Dr Bhatt. Salicylic acid’s comedolytic property makes it a useful peeling agent for people dealing with acne, as per research published in the Clinical, Cosmetic, And Investigational Dermatology journal in 2015. However, it can sometimes cause dryness or irritation, particularly for sensitive skin types.

Mandelic acid for skin

On the other hand, mandelic acid (AHA) has a larger molecular size, which means it penetrates more slowly, making it gentler and less irritating. “It’s particularly beneficial for sensitive skin and darker skin tones that are prone to hyperpigmentation,” says the expert. Additionally, mandelic acid improves skin texture, reduces acne, and brightens the skin tone.

The best skincare ingredient

During a 2019 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, about 45 percent mandelic acid peel was found to be as effective as 30 percent salicylic acid peel in people with mild facial acne. However, safety and tolerability of mandelic acid peel were better than salicylic acid peel.

“While salicylic acid is better for deep pore cleansing and managing oily skin, mandelic acid is a gentler, multi-purpose option suitable for those sensitive skin or people who are looking to deal with hyperpigmentation and texture issues,” says Dr Bhatt.

How to use mandelic acid for skin?

1. Beginners should take their time

You can use it daily, but it depends on your skin type and tolerance. For beginners or those with sensitive skin, it’s best to start slowly with a lower concentration, using it every other night or a few times a week to allow your skin to adjust. “It is better to begin using this AHA with 5 percent to allow your skin to adapt gradually. If your skin is already accustomed to AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid, or retinol, 10 percent might be tolerable, though a patch test is recommended,” says the expert. For sensitive or dry skin, 10 percent is generally not advisable as it could exacerbate dryness or irritation.

2. Start slow with mandelic acid

Always start slow, using it 1 to 2 times a week and increasing frequency as your skin adjusts. Pair it with a hydrating moisturiser and ensure you wear sunscreen during the day, as AHAs increase sensitivity to UV damage.

3. Be cautious

Mandelic acid should be used cautiously if you are already incorporating other exfoliating products like retinol or benzoyl peroxide into your skincare routine, as using them together can lead to over-exfoliation.

4. Follow a routine

To begin, it’s recommended to start with a milder concentration of mandelic acid, particularly in your night skincare routine. After cleansing your face with a gentle, mild cleanser, apply the mandelic acid serum, followed by a moisturiser to lock in hydration and support your skin’s barrier. This approach helps ensure your skin benefits from the exfoliation without becoming irritated.

What are the side effects of using mandelic acid for skin?

The side effects of this acid can vary depending on its concentration and how it’s used. It is important to introduce it gradually into your skincare routine, starting with once a week and observing how your skin tolerates it.

• If used on dry skin at higher concentrations or applied every night, it can lead to rashes and irritation.
• You can also experience skin dryness.
• Peeling of the skin is another potential side effect.

Mandelic acid can help to improve skin texture, reduce acne, lighten pigmentation, and promote an even skin tone. It can be used by anyone, but it is especially beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin. However, it is best to check with your dermatologist before introducing a new skincare product in your daily regimen.