Kering warns on annual 2024 operating profit as Gucci sales fall

French luxury goods group Kering warned on Wednesday its full-year operating income would almost halve after reporting a larger-than-expected drop in third quarter sales, as weak demand in China deepened the struggles of its main label Gucci.

Revenue for the group which also owns fashion brands Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta, was 3.79 billion euros ($4.08 billion), a 16% decline on an organic basis.

The figure was worse than an analyst consensus estimate of an 11% decline, according to a Barclays note.
Kering said its 2024 recurring operating income could be about 2.5 billion euros, following the larger-than-expected slowdown in the third quarter, compared with 4.75 billion euros a year earlier.

Kering’s warning comes as the luxury sector suffers a slowdown, with luxury bellwether LVMH last week missing expectations and flagging a drop in Chinese consumer confidence to Covid-era lows, with a deterioration in demand for high end fashion over the quarter.

Sales at Gucci, which accounts for half of annual group sales and two-thirds of profit, continued to slide and were down 25% in the quarter, compared to analysts’ consensus expectations for a 21% decline.

“We are executing a far-reaching transformation of the group, and at Gucci in particular, at a time when the whole luxury sector faces unfavourable market conditions,” Kering Chair and CEO Francois Henri Pinault said in a statement.

Kering has been managing a broad overhaul of the century-old Italian fashion house, rebuilding top executive teams and introducing a new streamlined design style under the artistic direction of Sabato de Sarno, while pushing the products upmarket.

The group said in a statement that the overhaul of Gucci’s leather goods category, with the introduction of a host of new products late in the quarter, was well underway.

Earlier this month, it named Stefano Cantino as CEO effective from January, replacing longtime Kering executive Jean-Francois Palus who held the role for an interim period since last year.