From vitamin C to retinol: Which skincare active is right for you?

Are you well-versed in the skincare active ingredient dictionary? From salicylic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C to hyaluronic acid, there are multiple skincare ingredients that play an essential role in maintaining your skin health. But, not every ingredient suits every skin type and using the wrong one may do more harm than good. Therefore, a better understanding of each ingredient can help you build an effective skincare routine. If you are confused about how to choose the right one, we have curated this guide containing dermatologist tips to make things easier for you. So, get ready to get glowing and healthy skin by using the right ingredients.

Understand your skin type

Before choosing a skincare active, it is important to understand your skin type as each one has different needs and tolerance levels:

1. Oily skin: This skin type produces excess oil, and is prone to acne and large pores.
2. Dry skin: People with dry skin may experience tightness, roughness and flakiness.
3. Combination skin: It combines the features of oily and dry skin. This skin type is oily in the T-zone and dry in other areas.
4. Sensitive skin: It reacts quickly and easily to skincare products and often experiences redness and irritation.
5. Normal skin: People with normal skin are surely God’s favourite children. This skin type is well-balanced.

How to identify your skin type?

To maintain the health of your skin, it is important to understand your skin type first. Dermatologist, Dr Mikki Singh suggests a few tips for this:

• Wash your face with a gentle cleanser.
• Leave it bare for 30 mins, then check.
• It your skin feels tight, you have dry skin.
• If you skin looks shiny, you have an oily skin.
• If you have shiny T-zone and dry cheeks, you have a combination skin.
• If there is no irritation or excess shine, you have normal skin.

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Benefits of common skincare active

To make the most out of a skincare ingredient, it is important to pick the right one:

1. Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid can exfoliate inside pores, remove excess oil and prevent clogged pores. Integrative Medicine states that salicylic acid can treat mild to moderate acne vulgaris.

2. Niacinamide

“It may help to reduce oil production, even out skin, reduce pores and brighten complexion,” says the expert. Dermatologic Surgery states that it can improve the appearance of skin wrinkles and elasticity.

3. Vitamin C

“This skincare active may brighten the skin, fade dark spots, boost collagen and reduce pigmentation,” says the expert. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology states that vitamin C can protect against anti-ageing effects by increasing collagen synthesis and stabilising collagen fibers.

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4. Kojic acid

It may inhibit melanin production, leading to clearer skin. Using a kojic-acid based skincare product may help fade dark spots, reduce hyperpigmentation and make your skin look brighter.

Also Read: Best salicylic acid face wash for oily skin: 10 picks for clear skin

5. Hyaluronic acid

It may attract and retain moisture in the skin. Dermatologic Therapy states that this skincare active can improve skin moisture. “It may offer deep hydration, plumps skin and reduces fine lines,” says the expert.

6. Retinol

“It may increase cell turnover, smooth wrinkles and treat acne,” says the expert. A study published in Biomelocules states that it may enhance skin texture and augment the thickness of epidermal and dermal layers.

7. Glycolic acid

“This skincare active may remove dead skin cells and boost radiance,” says the expert. Additionally, glycolic acid may help  brighten complexion and improve skin texture for a radiant glow.

8. Ceramides

“This skincare active may strengthen skin barrier, lock in moisture and soothe irritation,” says the expert. A study published in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatologists states that it can enhance the natural lipid-synthetic capability of the epidermis through the topical delivery of lipid precursors.

How to pick different skincare active for specific concerns?

Different skincare actives target specific concerns effectively. Dr. Singh suggests salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide, and retinol for acne. Vitamin C, alpha arbutin, and kojic acid help with hyperpigmentation. Fine lines improve with retinol, peptides, and growth factors. AHAs and niacinamide enhance texture, while ceramides, panthenol, and hyaluronic acid hydrate and soothe sensitive or dry skin.

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Factors to consider before choosing skincare active

• Lifestyle: If you spend a lot of time outdoors, opt for antioxidants like vitamin C and SPF. You may even opt for multi-functional ingredients like niacinamide.
• Age: If you are in your 20s, focus on hydration and sun protection. People in their 30s can benefit from retinol and peptides. Moreover, people in their 40s and beyond may use collagen-boosting and anti-ageing ingredients.
• Skin tolerance: “If your skin is reactive, start with gentler formulations (e.g., encapsulated retinol instead of strong retinol),” says the expert. Avoid using too many skincare ingredients at once.
• Ingredient compatibility: Make sure to use the right combination of skincare active ingredients. “Do not mix ingredients like retinol and AHAs/BHAs or vitamin C and niacinamide together,” says the expert.

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How to choose a skincare active based on skin-type

Choosing the right skincare active is essential to maintain the health of your skin. Here is how you can choose as per your skin type:

1. Oily and acne-prone skin

Oily skin produces excess oil. “opt for an ingredient like salicylic acid to reduce blackheads and breakouts. Moreover, you may also use niacinamide and retinol to regulate oil production, minimise pores, soothe inflammation and kill acne-causing bacteria,” says the expert.

2. Dry and dehydrated skin

“People with dry and dehydrated skin may benefit from ingredients like hyaluronic acid, squalane and ceramides,” adds the expert. They may help lock in moisture, prevent dryness, strengthen the skin barrier and tackle flakiness and irritation.

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3. Sensitive skin

“If you have sensitive skin, opt for skincare products that contain aloe vera, centella asiatica, green tea extract and panthenol,” says Dr Singh. They may soothe irritation, reduce redness, calm inflammation and protect against environmental stressors.

4. Combination skin

“To maintain the health of combination skin, opt for skincare products like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid,” says the expert. These ingredients may balance oil in the T-zone, hydrate dry areas and gently exfoliate the skin.

5. Ageing skin

“For mature and ageing skin, retinol, vitamin C and peptides are best,” suggests Dr Singh. They may boost collagen, reduce wrinkles, and pigmentation, repair damaged skin, improve skin texture, elasticity and protect against free radicals.

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How to include a skincare active in your skincare routine?

To keep your skin healthy, it is important to use the right skincare active. Dr Singh suggests how to use these actives correctly:

• Use cleansers containing hydrating or exfoliating ingredients.
• Apply antioxidants like Vitamin C or Niacinamide in the morning.
• Hydrate with Hyaluronic Acid for plump skin.
• Use a moisturiser with Ceramides or Peptides for nourishment.
• Always apply sunscreen (SPF 30+) during the day.
• Choose an oil-based or hydrating cleanser at night.
• Use targeted treatments like Retinol or AHAs.
• Strengthen the skin barrier with a ceramide-rich moisturiser.
• Introduce new actives gradually to monitor reactions.

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(Disclaimer: At Health Shots, we make a constant effort to break the clutter for our readers. All products listed are carefully curated by the editorial team but use your discretion and an expert’s opinion before using them. Their price and availability may differ from the time of publication. If you buy something using these links in the story, we may earn a commission.)