Why not set out on a food journey and learn about different foods worldwide? A great and unusual place to start is in the Arctic Circle, where you can experience winter in its complete form. The coniferous forests have been blanketed with snow for centuries, creating an unforgettable frosty landscape of blue ice.
Food is a huge part of this culture, and what you’ll experience here is no different. Koks (in English, seal blubber) is a big deal in this part of the world, and eating it will bring you a step closer to understanding Greenlandic culture and its people.
After all, eating something raw and natural is often considered to be quite healthy – but that’s not always the case with koksmad (seal blubber food). This delicacy has been a vital nutrient source in Greenlandic communities for centuries. It’s rich in vitamins A and D – vital for good bones and skin – as well as omega-3, calcium, iron, and iodine.
So why is it so controversial? As a result of its high-fat content, koksmad is incredibly rich in calories. A small slice of the cold, raw blubber can contain up to 240 calories and almost 50g of fat. The good health benefits have made Greenlanders continue to eat it, despite seal hunting being banned in 1986. Seal meat and blubber from hunted animals can be bought from most supermarkets and shops across Greenland, although many people choose not to eat it for environmental reasons.
“It’s too simple to say, ‘I’m not going to eat it because of the seal hunting. We’re also not just eating the seal’s liver. That’s only 5% of what we eat,” explains Greenlandic chef Jasper Suhm. For many, koksmad is still a delicious and healthy meal – whether it comes from a hunt or bought in town. One way to learn about the culture is by joining a local tour, which takes you through an authentic cooking class at one of Greenland’s smoky fish restaurants.
The smell of seal blubber lingers – but it’s more like just a whiff. The restaurant itself is an eye-opening experience. It’s called the International Seagull, and it really does have an abundance of images and pictures of seals on the walls, along with a stuffed bird at the entrance.
This can be overwhelming for foreigners, but after a week in Greenland, you’ll get used to these kinds of things – and you’ll even join in with the locals by yelling “Hip hip hurrah” every time they sing their signature song. “We want to show people how we live, how we eat, and how we drink,” explains Kajka Nielsen, who runs the restaurant. “It’s about having fun and getting to know the Greenlandic culture.” The menu is filled with delicious local dishes more familiar than raw seal blubber – including trout, back-fin whale, and savory fish steaks. But the star of the menu is, without a doubt, koksret {seal stew}, which contains seal blubber.
What makes koksmad such an important part of Greenlandic culture? It’s hard to say for certain, but it could be because you’re always connected to nature here – especially in winter. There are some who believe it’s because of the salt in the koksmad. Greenlanders traditionally cured the blubber by salting it and then hanging it from rafters inside their houses to dry. The body then developed a natural vaccine that protected against diseases like tuberculosis (TB). The practice has become obsolete, but many still eat foods cured this way.
The seal hunters still use the traditional methods to prepare their koksmad – and those that don’t usually prepare the blubber in another way. “I eat it raw – but I used to eat it dried, too,” explains Thomas Kanger, who runs a souvenir shop and a tour guide business.
He makes sure his guests get a taste of both versions. The frozen blubber is first sliced up and then carefully placed into boiling water until it melts. “It’s important to notice how the blubber changes when you boil it,” he explains. “It’s much easier to slice off the skin before cooking. Then you can scrape it off after the meat has turned white.” After the seal blubber is cooked, it’s more tender and easier to eat. It’s frequently served with boiled potatoes but with a smoky, unusual, and delicious taste.
This part of the world is famous for its cuisine. Globally, Greenland is known for blueberries, narwhal tusks, puffins, and arctic char – but visitors here are mostly interested in koksmad.
