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Monday, January 20, 2025

A technical, yet poetic, Milan debut

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January 19, 2025

One singular new visionary in menswear is Saul Nash, a London-based designer and dancer, whose latest collection – and Milan runway debut on Sunday – was all about movement.

Saul Nash – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

There’s little point in showing someone a still photo of Nash’s clothes, as there’s generally a surprise element at the back that makes the outfit.
 
Working principally in nylon and cotton jersey, Saul whipped up jumpsuits with diagonal collars; semi-sheer nylon surgeons’ smocks; and deep pocketed dude-style flight jackets. Nash’s Pacific blue microfiber parkas, with matching obis and cummerbunds, or techy jackets with built-in hoods weren’t half bad either.

Even when he sent out denim jeans, their print of abstract daubs suggested movement again.
 
Nash grew up in northeast London. He is a graduate of Central Saint Martins who also earned a scholarship to the Royal College of Art. Before founding his eponymous brand in 2018.
      
In 2022, he won the International Woolmark Prize and then nabbed the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. Saul has a long been noted for his individualistic approach to fashion, and ability to play with fashion grammar in his genderless athleisure clothing.
 

Saul Nash – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Staged inside a former factory, this show was highly appreciated by the audience who whipped up a huge racket when Nash took his bows with pirouettes, whirls and rotations.
 
In a word, Saul Nash is a great addition to Milan’s menswear season, and a designer we shall be hearing plenty more about. 
 

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