Adding new chapters to fresh ideas

The circular dresses undulated, wobbled and twirled in the morning show of Loewe, meters of floral rolled crepe draped over the thinnest of wire frames. A striking and unexpected image in the latest pathbreaking collection from Jonathan Anderson for the Madrid-born house.

Presented inside an all-white tent within the Chateau de Vincennes, though with an inner circle and a cast that circled around the set. An idea began in the Loewe invitation. It contained a Tudor-style gold wedding ring, a beveled love token and not a marriage ring. Finished with initials, as “a token of memory” and a symbol of commitment, even his own to Loewe, Anderson explained.
 
Anderson began playing with modern crinoline ideas at the Met Ball but has kept on refining the technique as the dresses get ever lighter. He mirrored those shapes with conical leather capes, smartly tailored elongated jackets; completed by very cool wide leather trousers, rouched up at one hip so the pants rippled. Taking on ideas seen in recent Loewe menswear collections.

“If something works, let’s keep refining it and master it. Adding three or more chapters. Why not? For me, the suit is a weird accomplishment, as I don’t think that Loewe was very good at tailoring for a long time,” he added with the typical forthrightness of a Northern Irishman.
 
His other big idea was the composer feathered top, a series of tanks made of precisely sewn white feathers – sourced from Maison Févier – on which were printed portraits of icons like Bach, Mozart and Chopin or Van Gogh’s sunflowers and irises. All instant fashionista cult items.

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“I like the idea that Mozart dropped music, like we do in fashion. That the composers were pin-up rockstars,” explained Anderson, speaking in a maul of 50 editors. One noted that the new Loewe boxing boot sneakers carried an L logo, but in musical script.
 
Since taking over at the LVMH-owned Loewe, Anderson has turned the brand into the hottest show in Paris with all manner of movie stars – from Daniel Craig to Joss O’Connor – and designers sitting front row. Sarah Burton joined Peter Mulier, Kris Van Assche and Pharrell Williams.
 
“I’ve never actually been to many shows, probably only three, and I have never witnessed that,” laughed Burton, pointing to the 1,500 fans outside screaming in K-Pop stars and, even more noisily, Jeff Goldblum.
 
Testifying to the importance of Anderson to LVMH and its CEO, key shareholder and Europe’s richest man Bernard Arnault, both his wife Helene and eldest child Delphine showed up for this show.
 
Given JW’s huge success and the vacancy, or possible new positions, in giant brands like Chanel or Gucci, Anderson’s name is often discussed as one of the best possible candidates for these mega jobs. 
 
Making his symbol of a ring in this show the subject of much discussion as the crowd left this show.