Giorgio Armani just gave himself a great pre-birthday present, a first-rate, refreshed and rippling signature menswear; on sun blessed Monday morning, the final day of Milano Moda Uomo.
With a bearded Russell Crowe, Matt Bomer, Raoul Bova, Ryota Katayose and Hu Ge sitting front row, Armani sent out one of his best-ever summer menswear collections, playing on many key elements in his oeuvre – deconstruction; non-colors; impeccable tailoring and a sense of Asian sophistication.
Which won him a prolonged standing ovation when he took his bow with two long-time loyal design cohorts Leo and Gianluca Dell’Orco. Armani, who will celebrate his 90th birthday on July 11, beamed, waved and smiled almost bashfully before slipping back in the backstage.
Elegiac and super elegant, he had opened the action with great languid tailoring – a faded herring bone suit with patch pocket that billowed gently, as if on a seaside stroll. Followed by soft sandy hued linen blazers and wide pleated pants tapered to the ankle.
He riffed on Sixties collarless jackets with silk cocktail looks, many in variations of pearl – which looked very classy before the faux alabaster runway and backdrop.
There was an audible murmur of approval when he sent out a series of beige treated cotton suits – updated Miami Vice mode. You sensed every guy in the room wanted that look, as well they should.
Many looks accessorized with Asian florals or hibiscus patterns, seen in silk scarves and stocks that rippled; and a selection of must-have silk waistcoats.
All very tony nomadic and backed up by a soft galactic funk soundtrack that included one great cut by Thylacine. Entitled ideally – The Road.
In a busy month for the Italian master, Armani is dressing the Italian national soccer team this summer. It began the defense of its European title with a victory over Albania on Saturday night. A win feted with a sports screening and lively party at the house’s main Milan restaurant.
And next week, Giorgio will arrive in Paris to present his Armani Privé haute couture collection on Tuesday. He might be about to become a nonagenarian, but this is one gent that keeps on truckin’. When does the emperor de la mode ever find time to sleep?
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