“Coffee, coffee!” the young boy yells. He balances a tray of steaming drinks he’s trying to sell in the bombed-out devastation of the Jabalia refugee camp.
Someone else has set up a kebab shop. Down the road, a teen is getting his hair cut in a makeshift barber’s stall.
Tables stacked with fresh vegetables stand out against the ubiquitous grey rubble. Some semblance of life is returning to the ruins of northern Gaza.
“I have so many blankets all under that rubble,” says Abu Samir, pointing at what is left of the home he lived in for 50 years.
“I have a couch, I have the best mattresses, thick mattresses.”
Abu says he hasn’t been able to wash for over a month
“I have not washed for 40 days,” he adds.
“My body can’t cope in this weather. For someone my age, I shouldn’t be living like this. What about my dignity?’
People are burning fires among the ruins, for cooking and for warmth.
Bulldozers clear away rubble in order to make roads, muddy now from rain. The nights are bitter, especially with just a tent as shelter.
Ola has a made a roof from sagging concrete
Ola Nasser, 57, has fashioned a roof for herself beneath a sagging mass of concrete which looks like it could give way at any moment.
It is her home though, and concrete walls offer more protection than tarpaulin, especially when you can light a fire in them.
‘Our children will not forget’
“We cannot accept what he [Donald Trump] says. We were born in Beit Hanoun, in Gaza, there’s no way we will leave Gaza unless it’s on a stretcher. Martyrs and dead people,” says Ola.
“Israel dreams of Gaza becoming a part of it. But when we die, our children will not forget. This is our land and the land of our grandparents. And our children will stay here whether they like it or not.”
Israel says it is now letting in 600 aid trucks a day through the Rafah crossing between Gaza and Egypt.
It means at least that food is more readily available. But there is still an urgent need for more shelter, fuel and medical supplies – all of which Hamas this week accused Israel of being slow to supply, almost scuppering the ceasefire.
“Very little aid has arrived since the ceasefire, relative to Gaza’s health sector’s needs,” says Dr Mustafa Hanna, who works at the Al Shifa hospital.
“We’re talking about a very small amount of medical aid meant to fulfil the enormous needs to treat the sick and wounded in Gaza Strip, especially in the north.”
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The Kamal Adwan hospital lies in ruins
Al Shifa is accepting some patients, but other healthcare facilities, like the Kamal Adwan hospital further north, are out of action.
There, our team filmed scenes of complete devastation – broken incubators in bombed-out maternity wards, medical equipment and supplies smashed to bits in amongst piles of rubble.
In the nearby Indonesian Hospital, Medecins Sans Frontieres says it was “utterly shocked to observe that every medical machine seemed to have been deliberately destroyed… smashed to pieces, one by one, to make sure no medical care could be provided anymore”.
Gaza is a hellscape, as every frame our camera teams shoot bears witness to. But it is also home, and its residents are remarkably resilient.
